How to Read a Knitting Pattern for Beginners (Complete Decoder Guide)
You found the perfect pattern. You're excited to start. You open it... and it looks like a foreign language.
*k2tog? RS? rep from ? What does any of this mean?
Quick Answer: Knitting patterns have their own shorthand language, but once you know the basics, they're actually easier to follow than full sentences. This guide breaks down every part of a pattern so you can confidently start any project.

Why Patterns Look So Confusing (And Why That's Actually Good)
Patterns use abbreviations because:
✅ They save space (imagine "knit 2 together" written 50 times)
✅ They're universal (knitters worldwide use the same abbreviations)
✅ They're faster to read once you know them
✅ They reduce errors (less text = less confusion)
The problem? Nobody teaches you the language before handing you the pattern.
Until now.
Anatomy of a Knitting Pattern: The 5 Main Parts
Every well-written pattern has these sections:
1. Pattern Information
- Pattern name
- Designer name
- Skill level (beginner, intermediate, advanced)
- Finished measurements
2. Materials Needed
- Yarn type and weight
- Yardage required
- Needle size(s)
- Notions (stitch markers, tapestry needle, buttons, etc.)
3. Gauge
- Stitches per inch
- Rows per inch
- In specific stitch pattern
4. Abbreviations
- List of all abbreviations used in pattern
- Sometimes included, sometimes you need to know them
5. Instructions
- Step-by-step directions
- Usually broken into sections (Brim, Body, Sleeves, etc.)

Essential Abbreviations You Need to Know
Basic Stitches
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
- sl = slip stitch
Increases
- kfb = knit front and back (increase)
- m1 = make one (increase)
- inc = increase
Decreases
- k2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk = slip slip knit (left-leaning decrease)
- p2tog = purl 2 together
- dec = decrease
Special Terms
- RS = right side (public-facing side of your work)
- WS = wrong side (back side of your work)
- BO = bind off
- CO = cast on
- rep = repeat
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
- beg = beginning
- rem = remaining
Punctuation That Matters
- Asterisk (*) = repeat from this point
- Brackets [ ] = repeat what's inside brackets
- Parentheses ( ) = size variations or clarifications
How to Decode Pattern Instructions
Let's break down real examples:
Example 1: Simple Instruction
Pattern says: "K10, p5, k to end"
Translation:
- Knit 10 stitches
- Purl 5 stitches
- Knit all remaining stitches until the end of the row
Example 2: Using Asterisks
Pattern says: "*K2, p2; rep from * to end"
Translation:
- Knit 2, purl 2
- Repeat that pattern (k2, p2) over and over until you reach the end of the row
Example 3: Using Brackets
Pattern says: "K5, [k2tog, k3] 4 times, k to end"
Translation:
- Knit 5 stitches
- Do this sequence 4 times: k2tog, then k3
- Knit remaining stitches to end
Example 4: Multiple Sizes
Pattern says: "CO 60 (70, 80, 90) sts"
Translation:
- Cast on 60 stitches for size Small
- Cast on 70 stitches for size Medium
- Cast on 80 stitches for size Large
- Cast on 90 stitches for size XL
Pro tip: Circle or highlight your size throughout the pattern before you start.
Example 5: Complex Instruction
Pattern says: "Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, ssk, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, yo, ssk, k2"
Translation:
- This is Row 1, worked on the right side
- Knit 1 stitch
- Then repeat this sequence until 4 stitches remain: yarn over, ssk, knit 3
- When 4 stitches are left: yarn over, ssk, knit 2
Understanding Gauge (And Why You Can't Skip It)
What Gauge Means:
Pattern says: "Gauge: 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in stockinette"
Translation: When you knit in stockinette stitch, you should get 20 stitches and 28 rows in a 4-inch square.
Why It Matters:
- Off gauge = wrong size finished project
- 1 stitch off per inch = sweater could be 4 inches too big or small
- Gauge in scarf = not critical; gauge in sweater = CRITICAL
How to Check It:
- Knit a 6"x6" swatch
- Block it (just like you'll block the finished item)
- Measure after blocking
- Count stitches and rows in the center 4"
If your gauge is off:
- Too many stitches per inch? Go up a needle size
- Too few stitches per inch? Go down a needle size
Reading Chart Patterns vs. Written Instructions
Some patterns use charts instead of (or in addition to) written instructions.
Chart Basics:
- Each square = 1 stitch
- Read RS (right side) rows from right to left
- Read WS (wrong side) rows from left to right
- Symbols represent different stitches
When to Use Charts:
✅ Colorwork (easier to see the picture)
✅ Cables (visual representation helps)
✅ Lace (can see the pattern emerge)
When Written is Easier:
✅ Simple stitch patterns
✅ You're a beginner
✅ You prefer text over visuals
Good news: Most patterns include both chart AND written instructions. Use whichever you prefer.
Common Pattern Phrases Decoded
"Work even"
Means: Continue in pattern without increases or decreases
"At the same time"
Means: Do two things simultaneously (like shape armholes while continuing pattern)
"End on WS row"
Means: Your last row worked should be a wrong-side row (so next row is RS)
"Work in pattern as established"
Means: Keep doing the stitch pattern you've been doing (don't start something new)
"Join in the round, being careful not to twist"
Means: Connect your cast-on row into a circle, making sure the stitches aren't twisted around the needle
How to Choose Your Size
Step 1: Measure Yourself
Don't guess. Get actual measurements:
- Bust/chest circumference
- Waist circumference
- Hip circumference
- Arm length
Step 2: Check Finished Measurements
Patterns list "finished measurements" - this is how big the actual garment will be.
Step 3: Understand Ease
Ease = difference between your body and the garment
- Negative ease: Garment smaller than you (stretchy, fitted)
- Zero ease: Garment same size as you (fitted)
- Positive ease: Garment bigger than you (relaxed, oversized)
Example:
- Your bust: 36"
- Pattern finished bust: 40"
- Ease: +4" (relaxed fit)
Step 4: Choose Your Size
Pick the size that gives you the ease/fit you want, NOT necessarily "your size" in ready-to-wear clothes.
Reading the Materials Section
Yarn Information
Pattern says: "3 skeins of Worsted Weight, 220 yards each (660 total)"
What to look for:
- Yarn weight (worsted, DK, bulky, etc.)
- Total yardage needed
- Fiber content if specified
Pro tip: You can substitute yarn, but stick to the same weight and get the correct gauge.
Needle Size
Pattern says: "US 7 (4.5mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge"
Translation: Start with size 7 needles, but if your gauge is off, change needle size.
Notions
Pattern says: "Stitch markers, tapestry needle, 5 buttons (¾" diameter)"
Translation: Buy these before you start (or raid your craft drawer).
Pattern Reading Tips for Success
Before You Start:
- Read the entire pattern (seriously, all of it)
- Highlight your size throughout
- Check you have all materials
- Look up unfamiliar abbreviations
- Make a gauge swatch (yes, really)
While You're Knitting:
- Use a row counter (app or physical)
- Mark your place (sticky note, highlighter)
- Take notes (if you modify anything)
- Check in with pattern every few rows
- Count stitches regularly (catches errors early)
If You Get Stuck:
- Reread slowly (patterns are precise)
- YouTube the technique (visual learners rejoice)
- Check pattern errata (designer's website may have corrections)
- Ask for help (knitting communities are incredibly supportive)
Red Flags: When a Pattern Might Be Poorly Written
Watch out for: ❌ No gauge information
❌ Missing abbreviation list
❌ Vague instructions ("knit until it looks right")
❌ No finished measurements
❌ No skill level listed
Better patterns include: ✅ Clear abbreviation list
✅ Schematic diagram
✅ Multiple sizes
✅ Helpful photos
✅ Designer support/contact info
Practice Exercise: Decode This Pattern Line
Try this one:
"Row 3 (RS): K2, *yo, k2tog, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, k2"
Your turn to translate before looking below...

Answer:
- This is Row 3, worked on the right side
- Knit 2 stitches
- Repeat this sequence until only 4 stitches remain: yarn over, k2tog, knit 4
- When you have 4 stitches left: yarn over, k2tog, knit 2
How'd you do?
Common Beginner Questions
Q: What if I don't understand an abbreviation and it's not in the pattern?
A: Google it or check Craft Yarn Council's standard abbreviations list. Most abbreviations are universal.
Q: Do I have to follow the pattern exactly?
A: For your first time making that project, yes. Once you understand how it works, you can modify.
Q: What if my gauge is off by just half a stitch?
A: For garments, change needle size. For scarves/blankets, it matters less.
Q: Can I use different yarn than the pattern suggests?
A: Yes, if you match the yarn weight and get the correct gauge. Fiber content affects drape and feel.
Q: What does "ending with a WS row" mean?
A: The last row you completed was a wrong-side row. Your next row will be a right-side row.
Q: How do I know if I'm reading the chart correctly?
A: Your knitting should match the chart visually. If it doesn't, you're reading it wrong.
Your Pattern Reading Checklist
Before starting any pattern:
✅ Read entire pattern start to finish
✅ Understand all abbreviations used
✅ Highlighted my size throughout
✅ Have all materials needed
✅ Made gauge swatch
✅ Know which size I'm making and why
✅ Understand the construction method
✅ Looked up any unfamiliar techniques
✅ Have pattern support if available
Start With Beginner-Friendly Patterns
Look for patterns that:
- List "easy" or "beginner" skill level
- Include clear abbreviation glossary
- Have step-by-step photos
- Offer video tutorials
- Have active designer support
Sierra Yarn kits include:
✓ Patterns written specifically for beginners
✓ Every abbreviation explained
✓ Step-by-step video tutorials
✓ Clear photos of each step
✓ Email support if you get stuck
You're Ready to Read Patterns
Remember:
- Every knitter felt confused by patterns at first
- It gets easier with every pattern you read
- When in doubt, knit a swatch and see what happens
- The knitting community is here to help
Pattern reading is like learning a new language. At first it's slow and you need to look everything up. But soon, you'll be reading patterns as naturally as English.
Now go find a pattern and decode it. You've got this.
Save this guide! Bookmark it for when you're stuck on pattern instructions.
Questions about reading patterns? Drop them in the comments below!
Happy knitting! 🧶
